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From the tranquility of Iona and the spectacular shape of Staffa, MV Fyne Spirit sets course to the Isle of Islay, the last stop before returning to Inveraray, where the Hebrides Classic cruise will end.
Only 25 miles in length and 20 miles wide at most, Islay is nonetheless one of the largest islands among the inner Hebrides and has a fairly even climate. For such a relatively small island, Islay offers a widely varied landscape reaching from the Rhinns of Islay on the western peninsula to the rough moorland of the Oa in the south-east and the white sand dunes of Lough Gruinart in the north. Islay’s abundant wildlife includes red deer, seals, puffins, otters, herons and more.
The Gaelic name of Islay is Ile or sometimes Eila. There are two possible origins to the name. One maintains that Islay is named from an ancient Goddess of the same name. The other tells of a princess from Denmark named Yula who is supposed to be buried on the island near Port Ellen where standing stones mark the grave.
Port Ellen was founded in 1821 by Walter Frederick Campbell, then Laird of Islay, and was named after his wife. By 1825 Port Ellen distillery had been founded. Despite the quality of its output, this closed, probably for good, in 1983 though a recent coat of paint gives it an attractive air and keeps alive the hope that maybe, some day...
The nearby industrial scale Port Ellen maltings continue to operate, and serve a number of Islay's distilleries.
Port Ellen itself occupies two bays on the loch, between which is the rocky outcrop housing the harbour facilities. The village is made up mostly of the white painted houses and cottages found all over Islay, with a few larger stone faced buildings mixed in. There are two churches, one overlooking each of the two bays: and each bay also offers a beach.
Port Ellen is significant as the centre of the whole of southern Islay. The road to the east from the village leads you past the justly famous distilleries of Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg, the last of which has only recently come back into use.
Overlooking Lagavulin Bay and its distillery are the ruined remains of Dunyvaig Castle. This was a fortress of the MacDonald Lords of the Isles before James IV asserted his authority in 1493. In later life it was besieged and captured in 1612, 1615 and (twice) in 1647. It was largely demolished by the Campbell lairds of Islay when they moved to more modern accommodation in Islay House in 1677.
To the west a minor road takes you along The Oa, the peninsula now home mostly to the deserted settlements of the 4,000 people who lived here before the clearances that saw them resettled in places like Port Ellen, or emigrating altogether. It is worth bearing in mind that the population of Islay in the 1830s was 18,000.
Today it is just 4,000, equal to the number who once lived just on the Oa peninsula.
North from Port Ellen you have a choice of roads to take you to the centre of the island. The old "High Road" is a good quality single track that runs across the peat moss in an almost dead straight line to Bridgend, near Bowmore. This must be about the second straightest road in Scotland, the straightest being the "Low Road" that replaced it.
This Low Road runs in an unsettlingly dead straight line for the better part of ten miles. En route to Bowmore it passes by Islay's airport.
No visit to the south of Islay is complete without seeing Big Strand, the superb seven mile stretch of beach along west-facing Laggan Bay. This can be reached most easily via Kintra at the southern end or the bay. If you like your beaches large and sweeping, then Big Strand is the place for you.
Golf
Apart from a few changes made in the late 1970's by Donald Steel, the course remains very much the same as when Willie Campbell first constructed it all these years ago. Thus it is a traditional links course and, when playing, one gets the feeling of going back in time to the days of Harry Vardon and John Taylor. Indeed the Machrie's main claim to fame is its own Open Championship of 1901 which included the "Great Triumvirate" of Harry Vardon, John Henry Taylor and James Braid. It had the highest price of any Open competition at that time of £100.00!
Pony trekking
Rockside Farm Riding Centre, situated on the west coast of Islay, with long sandy beaches and wild hillside tracks, offers some of the best riding in Scotland.
Ballivicar Farm Pony Trekking is able to tailor rides to the riders' ability, from the youngest of riders to the most experienced. All riders receive individual attention from Centre staff. The length of rides are from one to two hours responding to riders' expertise and horses' fitness.
Cycling
Cycling is a great option, and given that Islay is comparatively flat, it does not require a great degree of athleticism! Also, there's generally very little traffic on the roads
With Islay only 30 miles long there are many choices of routes. Islay has no shortage of famous name distilleries as many Malt Whisky brands are actually places on the Island. Visit the Wildlife centre , rural life museum or RSPB centre or just cycle the quiet lanes , see quaint bays , small sandy beaches. Here you may feel time has stood still .
Morag’s Café is a licensed café / bar situated inside the terminal building at the airport. Morag also offers a very reasonably priced bicycle hire service for private pilots or general public use. Islay is a perfect location for cycling with both main towns within easy reach of the airport. This will also allow you to take a more leisurely trip and enjoy the fresh air and scenery.
Hiking
Islay, the Queen of the Hebrides, is the most southerly of the main Hebridean Islands. Our base there should allow us to sample some of the fine coastal and moorland walks, the history and wildlife for which it is justly famous. The Islay Geese are a sight to be seen as well as the resident choughs, and numerous other sightings make this a bird watchers paradise.
Fishing
Islay Marine Charters are based on the Hebridean island of Islay offering private and commercial charter for sea angling
Mackerel Fishing Trips
Our four hour mackerel fishing trips are always popular with visitors. During the summer months shoals of mackerel frequent the local waters around Islay. They are usually easy to catch, so you can nearly always expect to leave the boat with fish for your supper.
Reef Fishing
Full day reef fishing trips are available. These trips last eight hours, and usually take us to either the Isle of Colonsay, the Isle of Gigha, or the Ardmore islands to the souht of Islay. Pollock and Coalfish are the main catch, with the odd Cod and Wrasse on occasions. Pollock of six to eight pounds are not uncommon.
Wreck Fishing
The wreck fishing around Islay can be excellent with the best catches being landed during the late summer and early autumn, from wrecks up to twenty miles off shore. It's not uncommon to see eight or more species come over the side in a day. In one session we have caught Ling, Pollock, Cod, Coalfish, Wrasse, Pouting, Tope, Dab.
Unfortunately we do not run these trips as often as we would like, as we need to have neap tides, good weather and the fishermen. To have all three is not common.
Mark Fishing
We have good marks for Tope and Rays, and we will be exploring other marks this year with the intention of adding common Skate to our list of species caught.
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